Yes, have to agree on the post processing here, not that good, BUT, the image has promise as it looks like he's about to fall from the top of a large swell!
IMHO, a shot doesn't have to be tack sharp to be good, it's more a case of capturing the decisive moment. There has been no swell up here on the north coast for months, I think my camera has been eaten by moths it's seen such little use of late!
Keep on with the surf shots. I usually use the following settings for surf shots:
Manual
mode
Spot metering
F5.6- F6
1/1000 and up shutter speed
Auto WB
Keep an eye on ISO for cloud cover/light changes etc. If it's getting late, don't be afraid to bump up the ISO to 400 or more.
Cheers,
Max